Marni is to introduce a campaign for its autumn-winter 2015-16 women’s wear collection. Photographed by the Anglo-American artist Jackie Nickerson it portrays the Marni woman as a strong, thoughtful character with a proudly independent spirit.
Rather than showing off immaculately styled outfits to the camera, the Marni woman appears lost in thought. She is depicted lying outstretched on the floor, leaning against an upturned table and standing in the corner of a room. Her face is either cropped out of shot, turned away from the lens, or covered by her arms. Often, only a segment of her body is visible, invariably in an odd position, with her legs dangling off the edge of a chair or lying akimbo on the floor, suggesting that her focus is something more compelling that is happening out of shot.
Beguiling though this woman’s clothes are, they are evidently not her central concern, nor is her hair, make-up or any other trope of conventional fashion photography. The sleeves of a dress crumple down her raised arms, and the folds of a skirt are rumpled on the floor. The soft leather of a bag bulges as the woman clutches it, squashing it against her body, just as she might in real life.
“What we wanted was to create beautiful yet strong images that stand alone,” said Consuelo Castiglioni, Marni’s creative director. “Each one having an impact of its own without the others…”
“I love the Marni sensibility and the experimental or perhaps defiant or subversive way Consuelo approaches design,” said Jackie Nickerson. “There’s an elegance to the images, and a bit of havoc thrown in. I think it’s always better if, when we look at a photograph, we see the person first. So the person is wearing the clothes instead of the clothes owning the person.”