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“IT was just so Vivienne wasn’t it?” said Westwood’s long-term friend Boy George as he summed up the designer’s new collection. “She did all the things she’s good at but no one could ever say that was a bad thing because everything she makes is just so beautifully made. She is the godmother of punk.”

As Boy George says, for autumn/winter 2011-12 Westwood offered all her signatures (there were plenty of checks, feminine yet empowered shapes and irreverent tailoring), yet this season they were each given an Alice In Wonderland-inspired spin. It seems a wonder such a pairing had not come about sooner, so in keeping Lewis Carroll’s tale fits in with the twisted take on Britishness the designer is famous for.

Set against the grand backdrop of the Royal Courts of Justice, Westwood’s models looked as if they would each sit happily at the Madhatter’s tea party. Johnny Depp’s Madhatter would have felt perfectly at home in one of the label’s black velvet two-piece suits (teamed with an oversized bow tie), while the Queen of Hearts would be suitably attired in the red draped dress, modelled by the Amazonian Daisy Lowe. The show’s hero piece – a technicolour feather jacket – would further emphasise the friendly caterpillar’s psychedelic charms. Headwear also played a key part, with a host of Queen of Hearts-style crowns, oversized trilbys and Piper Piper-inspired green hats.

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